I have been making candles for a little while now and have only used 464 and never had the candles perform how I wanted them. Never really got a good hot throw and other issues. I read the reviews on the C-3 and decided to give it a try and so far so good! Clean even burn and good hot throw! I followed other reviews on how to pour them and I haven't had any issues so far. I lit mg candles after only five days of curing and it filled my bedroom up. So happy!
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DetailsCargill NatureWax C-3 Soy Wax is a container wax that resists frosting and wet spots. This 100% soy wax has great glass adhesion and an opaque, creamy finish. C-3 has excellent scent throw and color retention. The higher melt point allows this wax to ship well in all climates.
Learn more about how you can get the best results from this wax by viewing our Lab Notes 〉Note: Wax is packaged in flake form.
Wholesale Soy Wax Ordering
Check out our wholesale page for more information on ordering Cargill NatureWax C-3 Soy Wax in bulk or by the pallet.
For help choosing the right candle wax for your candles, visit our Wax Guide.
I was using the 444 and having so many issues. My tops were constantly uneven, pitting, ect.
After reading the reviews for C3 I figured I’d give it a try. I absolutely LOVE it! I always heat my jars in the oven before pouring. I keep my room at 75 degrees. I melt the wax to 185 and pour exactly at 160! I get smooth tops every time. My candles even remain smooth from the first burn to the last burn.
This is my new favorite wax!
I have pros and cons about this wax. It has great scent throw but it’s performance in glass is terrible. The frosting is very high and looks undesirable as far as sales, but the scent is right on. The tops are very pitted. I corrected that with a short shot with a heat gun. I did a custom 3 layered colored candle of Lemongrass, Lime & Lavender for customer. You can’t see it in the Lemongrass, you start to see frosting or “Grub” in the Lime, and then see more by the time you get to the Lavender.
Use it in the tins and it’s perfect! Tops and all.
So my suggestion is, use it only for 6 or 8oz tins and go stress free.
I started with 464 but quickly looked for new options due to lack of hot throw with 464. I found C3 and I'm never going to do anything different. I love that it is 100% soy and it comes in a flake form. This wax may have its challenges (wet spots, sink wholes, & a slight crack shaped as a circle around the wick) but the hot throw and cold throw capabilities makes this wax worth it. Keep working w/ it and you won't be disappointed!
This wax is horrible! Sink holes, frosting .. just an ugly finish. I guess when you start out with the best (ecosoya) there is nowhere to go but down. Sad that they are discontinuing. I’ve yet to find a better wax.
I spent a year testing paraffin and various soy waxes, and came back to C3. This wax has been consistent in quality. Hot and cold throw are amazing. Yes you do need to learn how to pour it and work with it but once you do, your candles will be easy to pour. All my candles look and burn beautifully.
You will need to wick up with this wax. It’s harder than other soy waxes. And it needs attention and consistency to pour temp. I like this better than 464 and 4627.
TLDR; Creamy indeed, forgiving pour temps, will frost in the cold but can be temporarily fixed with a heat gun
This is the 1st wax I've used from CandleScience (previous one was from Amazon and had HORRIBLE sinkholes). I'm very happy with this wax and just write this review to give data on how its worked for me in case you are thinking of buying it. I usually pour around 160F, but have also poured up to 175F before and been fine. I preheat my jars in the oven at about 125F before applying the wick and then pouring ASAP. All my candles usually get a thin circular crack around the wick that is easily fixed by the heat gun, but also hardly noticeable. I never get sinkholes.
I get frosting sometimes. On my liquid red dye candles I can usually pour with no signs of frosting, but if I vend outside when its cold they will start to frost so you really have to try and keep them in a stable temperature as much as possible. Heat gun fixes the frosting but it will come back if you change extreme temperatures again. Once I got extreme frosting right after a pour when I used a liquid purple dye, very speckled - possibly because cooled too fast, it was a thin layer of wax to make a rainbow candle rather than a whole single-color candle.
A note on heat guns: If you dont have one, get one! Dont be like me and try to use a hair dryer. The heat gun works way better to fix frosting on the both AND sides of the candle.
I was looking forward to testing the wax and at first pour had smooth tops and great glass adhesion. Glasses warmed and poured at 160 slowly. Cooled nicely with no sink holes, nice creamy color and glass adhesion was looking great. But after a day of cooling, wet spots appeared in all my clear glass containers. Sink holes can be fixed but wet spots are easily seen. Very disappointed.
I added fragrance at 185 and poured at 135 - produced nice creamy tops but after a few days poor glass adhesion. Good scent throw, not sure if I will purchase again since I will primarily be using glass containers. I will have to use this in tins.
I wanted to leave a review for Cargill C 3 because I've been using this wax since my first attempts at candle making and it's been consistent through the years. I am a hobby level candle maker who sells a little bit to friends and some local businesses. One thing I know is that wax has been great, crappy, and stinky and that could be any one brand and type, depending on the lot. Maybe it's been my luck but I doubt it because that's just not 'science'. A couple things to know about C 3. It's a basic, no frills soy wax. It frosts. It gets wet spots. It is not promoted as a single pour wax. You make up your batch of wax, pour the containers holding back enough wax and leaving some room to come back and top off after the candle sets up. I see a lot of comments about heat gun, and that's probably too hard, just top off with wax if needed save the heat gun for simple fixes not sink holes. It's not ideal to have to top off, if you are used to a super wax that is perfect with the first pour all the time. But, I haven't found a wax ever that has been reliable through all the odd industry formula changes, supply demands and short falls and various changes in fragrances as well. But, C 3 has been C 3 through all of this 'stuff', stable and reliable. It does offer a nice ivory color, good tops on the second top off, and usually doesn't go crazy with some strange fluffy or choppy or oily, gloppy crystalline lattice. It is the best smelling wax, maybe because it was my first, but it doesn't have a weird chemical smell and is just soy wax and doesn't interfere with the fragrance of the candle over time. As with all of the waxes, it's good to protect your hands, and cuticles, your nails from the wax. I use 1 ounce FO per pound of wax to start and adjust from there. 2 weeks to one month to fully cure. It's important to figure this out because I've been shocked at how strong the hot throw and cold throw can be with a fully cured candle. Too much FO can just be too much. Many FOs smell nicer, classier when they are at an optimum rather than being strong. Black Currant Absinthe is like that for bath/grooming products and a little bit in wax. It is so good when you take it down. I always follow the manufacturers instructions when it comes to heating, adding and pouring temps with a wax. That is science and it should give the most reliable and repeatable results. C-3 is a pretty good deal for cost. When I first started buying C 3 it was 135 with shipping, so candlescience is a good price, years later. This wax is awesome for the small containers, 2 or 4 oz jars and tins. I've always had good luck with CD, HTP, and Eco wicks with this wax, it depends on the FO. LX can be great too, again it just depends on FO. When you are testing, if you have all of these wicks, you might as well check them out because the throw and burn quality can be better depending on the wick. I've used steric acid in this wax, to increase the burn time, melt point and in hopes of improving the frosting. This wax isn't the best for melts because people may be put off by the frosting. I do use color in this wax; I've used the chips and they work fine. Still frosting but sometimes color is fun. I have also mixed this wax with 464 and that works. I add coconut wax or coconut oil sometimes to increase immediate throw and just to experiment to see if there is less frosting, creamier tops and less wet spots. . FO may or may not work with a wax so if somethings off try another FO. I pour a bunch of FOs when testing a new wax, sometimes many FOs prove to be trouble. I don't try to swim against the current and make things work when they will not. Just use the FOs you like that are easy to work with and it'll be more fun over all. That's about it. I hope this helps.
I forgot to ask. I add at least 1.5 oz per lb of scent oil so I’ll get a good scent throw with this soy wax. If I do 1 oz per lb some scents aren’t strong enough. I have tried 1 oz per lb but still got a sink hole. At least i don’t see frosting because I don’t add color to my candles.
Natures C3 Wax has a good scent throw, and a pretty creamy, white color. Only thing I deeply dislike like is that I have to go back at least 3 times to get rid of the sink holes. Ecoya wax didn’t have sink holes. I’ve have poured slowed, I’ve poured moderate, I have poured at regular temp after adding scent, and I’ve poured at cooler temperature. Nothing seems to stop the sink holes. I’ve even poured less amount in jar thinking I’m filling too full. Wish this could be tweaked. I’ll finish the 50lbs I bought but will probably search for another soy blend wax. Any tips that I have not tried? Thanks.
Since EcoSoya was discontinued, I had to find a soy wax replacement. Cargill C-3 was giving me a headache. I sampled it alongside my old wax and did pours with different suggested wicks. I agree to most people’s feedback, this wax creates a circular crack and sunken center. Also, it would have a dimple on the side, a sink hole if you must. I tried the pour temperatures that one person recommended in the feedback and it did help a bit but the problem remains. Furthermore, when I lit the candles, it had “dirty” melt pool. CS recommended that I make sure my containers are clean. Well, they were, all of them. Recently, as I was making another batch, I found wax flakes that have dirt in them, it may be a natural component that it creeped into the processing. Alas! I found out why there’s a dirty melt pool in my candles, this wax has impurities. Now that I know what I’m looking for, I kept finding them in my wax!
I am not finding joy in making candles recently. I’m so unsatisfied with this replacement.
A note on my previous post:
The candle poured @ 135* also had a huge sink hole.
When I said flawless tops, I meant, if it wasn’t for the sink holes, they were smooth as a baby’s bottom.
Hope this helps
I had to find a substitute for my CB advanced.
I did some testing, heated wax to a minimum of 185*, room temp 70* & poured @ 135*, 150* & 170*. The 135* had a smooth top, had very, very small almost indiscernible flaws. The 150* & 170* had flawless creamy tops. But, had HUGE sink holes, will have to do a 2 pour method. Burned after 36 hrs of cure.
I have soooo much LX 24 wicking, so I used this & some LX 26. This obviously has to be changed.
It burned very slow (gotta try bigger wicks), got a very small wax pool & air bubbles kept surfacing, after the burn, the tops were still very smooth.
Even tho this seemed to burn slower, it did burn more wax than the GB 464 test candle. I weighed them b4 & after burning.
Good hot & cold throw.
I didn’t notice any frosting or wet spots, but this could be because I burned soon after pouring. If doing a second pour, that temp will melt the top down a bit & may create frosting or wet spots. Personally, I don’t care, ‘cuz it’ll eventually all melt down. And this is even surprises me, because I’m a bit of a perfectionist!
The GB 464 performed much, much better. In my opinion.
If you are looking for a replacement for Ecosoya waxes, this one burns a lot better, and is a good replacement. It has come out with slight defects(easily fixed) but that's not a problem. This wax is good, burns well, and is nice too look at. Way better than 464.
I have to say that of all the soy waxes I’ve tried, this is definitely my favorite. It sets up beautifully, and the fragrance throw is better than any wax I’ve yet tried.
For those having issues, I’ve found that this wax likes to be poured a bit warmer, around 160-170. Add fragrance at exactly 185 degrees, stir for a full two minutes (use a timer, don’t skimp on this) and then immediately pour in your room temperature jars without waiting for it to cool any further. When I do it this way I never have any issues, perfect tops and glass adhesion every time. If I wait too long and the temperature falls below 160, that’s when the cracks and sink holes appear. Hope this helps!
The only issue I have here is the price. I was initially excited at the prospect of being able to order all of my supplies from one place, but between the higher item price and shipping charge, it comes up to nearly 30 dollars more for a 50 lb case than what my other supplier charges for price+shipping (Maybe because they offer fedex? Not really sure)
I purchased this after being a user of CB Advanced. I found my sweet spot with CB after testing other soy waxes and was saddened to see it go but certainly understand the company's raw material supply issue. With CB, the wax melted quickly and had a good throw. So naturally I had the same expectations when sampling C-3. Initially, I used the same ECO wick which did not burn well. Tunneling, no throw, etc. I then upped the wick and also tested CDs. CD12 works best but for me personally it took 3-4 hours to get melted wax all across the top and to the edges of the jar with a new candle. There was no throw as well. However, once the wax burns down a bit, the jar traps more heat which lessens the time to get a full pool. The jar gets crazy hot though which not all people might like. Not hot enough to explode* I also didn't experience a good throw even with a quicker burn. It does burn even and the further down the wax melts, the quicker it will melt but it certainly didn't melt-clean the jar like I had with CB. After going through this sampling stage, I've decided to move on from Soy Wax. I enjoyed my learning experience with it and still have respect for it. There may be different style jars, wicks and fragrance loads that work well with this blend. My review is based on my experience with it.
So glad I can finally order all supplies from one place. C3 is my go to wax and finally ordering from one place makes it so much easier than multiple places plus cheaper shipping. Also the only website I have found with a soy rating for fragrance oils which is a must when working with soy.
This wax produces creamy tops and that's about the only upside. Massive craters and sinkholes and every temp along the spectrum. Followed all temp ranges for ambient room temps as suggested by Candlescience and others on here. Same results. The worst part, is the glass adhesion/wet spots are HORRIBLE at every temp pour as well. We have a 50lb box that will now collect dust as I wont ever use anything but 444 again.
I am so glad CandleScience is now carrying Nature wax! I decided on this wax after testing alongside 464, ultimately preferring the hot/cold throw with Nature Wax and the clean burn. Yes, it does take a little bit of patience and care when blending and pouring, but it's worth it. I do get sinkholes and some cracking on occasion but it's nothing a heat gun can't fix. A perfect pour results in a beautiful creamy top though! In my opinion, occasional cosmetic issues are 100% worth the AMAZING hot throw and general high quality of this wax. The high melt point also means I've had zero issues shipping in the heat besides some minor sweating. It also works great in wax melts. I think CS recommends CD and Eco wicks, but I've had the most success with HTP. All around this is a fantastic wax and well worth it if you are looking for something that performs well in all categories.
This is without a doubt my favorite wax! So glad Candlescience carries this wax now. I have been ordering this from another candle supply company now I can purchase all my supplies with one supplier. The performance is remarkable great hot and cold throw. It does take some testing and skill but once you got your recipe down....sky’s the limit. Please don’t ever discontinue this wax, it’s the bones to my business. Thank you for being such an amazing company!!!!
This is the worst wax out there ,is not reliable, is very unpredictable no matter the temperature your melt and poured is horrible.
I purchased the 10 pound bag to test this wax. It seems to be a very nice wax. Set up perfectly and just a little shot from the heat gun was needed.
I have decided to switch to the coconut soy wax CS carries now but this will be a great back up. No more GB464 for me.
I think patience when trying new waxes is definitely needed. CS customer service has always been a great go to for any questions that arise. I love the fact that I can text them a question and it comes back quickly! Thank you so much!
I have always used this wax and I love it. They key is temperature. I pour at 160 degrees, with an ambient temperature of 80 degrees. I will add the chart from their PDF here. The room temp is very important. My tops are always smooth and I never have any issues. I don't use the heat gun ever.
Ambient Room Temperature - Wax Pour Temperature
60 to 70°F (15.6 to 21.1°C) - 170 to 180°F (76.7 to 82.2°C).
70 to 80°F (21.1 to 26.7°C) - 160 to 170°F (71.1 to 76.7°C).
80 to 90°F (26.7 to 32.2°C) - 145 to 155°F (62.8 to 68.3°C
This is the wax I use every day for my candles. It took me a while to figure out the best pouring temp for my ambient air conditions but it's super consistent once you find that sweet spot. Finished and fully cooled candles can be sensitive to frosting when switching from one extreme temp to another but when kept in the advisable storage temperature range, I've had candles that decorate my house/shelves for years without frosting. I have had some issues with sinkholes but usually that's an environmental thing for me and I choose sinkholes over pouring cooler and my candles frosting as they cool. I MUCH prefer this wax to 444 or 464 and it looks a lot nicer after it melts and cools. I love its throw and even burn. Giving it 4 stars simply because it can be pretty temperature sensitive which can be frustrating for new users (and okay, it's still frustrating at times after a few years but I know my little eccentricities at this point)!
I made 12 candles using this wax and every one had a circular crack in the center and was slightly sunk in. I used my heat gun to try to fix it but that crack kept re-appearing. But I did like that every candle looked smooth and vibrant in the glass. They also had a great hot throw.
Absolutely hate this wax! I was using 444 and it is not discontinued. I thought I would try this out to see how it is since its new and I feel like I wasted money. I purchased 20lbs of wax and EVERY SINGLE candle I made has sinkholes and cracks. I followed all instructions on pour temp, set temp etc. Super disappointed that all the wax, fragrance oils and jars I purchased are basically a waste, not to mention my time making them.