I wanted to leave a review for Cargill C 3 because I've been using this wax since my first attempts at candle making and it's been consistent through the years. I am a hobby level candle maker who sells a little bit to friends and some local businesses. One thing I know is that wax has been great, crappy, and stinky and that could be any one brand and type, depending on the lot. Maybe it's been my luck but I doubt it because that's just not 'science'. A couple things to know about C 3. It's a basic, no frills soy wax. It frosts. It gets wet spots. It is not promoted as a single pour wax. You make up your batch of wax, pour the containers holding back enough wax and leaving some room to come back and top off after the candle sets up. I see a lot of comments about heat gun, and that's probably too hard, just top off with wax if needed save the heat gun for simple fixes not sink holes. It's not ideal to have to top off, if you are used to a super wax that is perfect with the first pour all the time. But, I haven't found a wax ever that has been reliable through all the odd industry formula changes, supply demands and short falls and various changes in fragrances as well. But, C 3 has been C 3 through all of this 'stuff', stable and reliable. It does offer a nice ivory color, good tops on the second top off, and usually doesn't go crazy with some strange fluffy or choppy or oily, gloppy crystalline lattice. It is the best smelling wax, maybe because it was my first, but it doesn't have a weird chemical smell and is just soy wax and doesn't interfere with the fragrance of the candle over time. As with all of the waxes, it's good to protect your hands, and cuticles, your nails from the wax. I use 1 ounce FO per pound of wax to start and adjust from there. 2 weeks to one month to fully cure. It's important to figure this out because I've been shocked at how strong the hot throw and cold throw can be with a fully cured candle. Too much FO can just be too much. Many FOs smell nicer, classier when they are at an optimum rather than being strong. Black Currant Absinthe is like that for bath/grooming products and a little bit in wax. It is so good when you take it down. I always follow the manufacturers instructions when it comes to heating, adding and pouring temps with a wax. That is science and it should give the most reliable and repeatable results. C-3 is a pretty good deal for cost. When I first started buying C 3 it was 135 with shipping, so candlescience is a good price, years later. This wax is awesome for the small containers, 2 or 4 oz jars and tins. I've always had good luck with CD, HTP, and Eco wicks with this wax, it depends on the FO. LX can be great too, again it just depends on FO. When you are testing, if you have all of these wicks, you might as well check them out because the throw and burn quality can be better depending on the wick. I've used steric acid in this wax, to increase the burn time, melt point and in hopes of improving the frosting. This wax isn't the best for melts because people may be put off by the frosting. I do use color in this wax; I've used the chips and they work fine. Still frosting but sometimes color is fun. I have also mixed this wax with 464 and that works. I add coconut wax or coconut oil sometimes to increase immediate throw and just to experiment to see if there is less frosting, creamier tops and less wet spots. . FO may or may not work with a wax so if somethings off try another FO. I pour a bunch of FOs when testing a new wax, sometimes many FOs prove to be trouble. I don't try to swim against the current and make things work when they will not. Just use the FOs you like that are easy to work with and it'll be more fun over all. That's about it. I hope this helps.