I have used this wax to learn candling and in the past few months, it's been quite a journey. After using an entire bag of wax to experiment with small container candles, using a variety of different oils, I've figured out what the trifecta with this is (for me). I use 9-10% FO, depending on the oil, I add the oil right at 185, but unlike the directions stated on the bag, I don't stir for 2 minutes because there's nothing but craters, cracks and bubbles in and on the tops of the candles when I do that. Rather, I stir until I notice that the oil is incorporated (gotta eyeball it, but it's not more than 20 seconds, stirred slowly). Pouring slowly right at 135 is also key, though the conditions of my kitchen have to be just right (no draft, no fan etc). With all of these combined, I've gotten mostly smooth tops, though one can see a bit of swirls, which is easily remedied with a heat gun for the smooth-smooth surface folks are looking for. Also, heating the containers before pouring makes a world of difference.

464 worked perfect. Tried this out because of warmer summers, but having big problems with sink holes and dents. Any advice? Melting to 185, then pouring at 135.

I have been making candles for a few years and wonder why my candles always have sink holes or dents in the top of my candles. I melt to 185 add fragrance at 150 and pour at 135. Please help..

I have been making candles for a few years and wonder why my candles always have sink holes or lumps in the top of my candles. I transitioned from using 464 however, is there a secret behind burning this soy wax? I melt to 185 and pour at 135.

I’ve been in the candle business for years and decided to try this wax after reading so many positive reviews. I am heating to 185 and pouring at 135. No matter what I do, they cure with holes, pits, dimples and just rough looking tops. Could someone plz tell me what the magic secret is with this wax??