IGI 4625 Pillar and Votive Blend Wax

I started with jars, but they wheren't really "doing it for me, and I like pillars more. After reading around on this site, i tried my hand with a 10lb slab. The first few came out kinda weird, yet had a cool effect on the sides. I soon realized I was pouring too cold, as I was used to 135 for jars. When I poured around 175-179 degrees, the sides came out almost like glass.
I will echo other reviews, that the slab can be tricky to break up if you are not prepared. I used a screwdriver and a mallet to break it into small chunks, after scoring into a grid pattern on all sides. It didnt take long once I got the swing of it. My roommate thought he could punch through it, and nearly busted his hand, so unless you are a ninja, i'd recommend using a tool of some kind, and breaking them into pieces small enough that they can fit in your melting pitcher.

This wax changed my candle making game for the absolute best. Also, using this wax is way less intimidating than I initially expected it to be. My end results are now vibrantly colored, richly scented, somewhat translucent candles that burn evenly and for many hours. I'm offering a few tips that may be redundant to some but may be helpful to others.
- Breaking the slabs: I found it plenty easy to break these up into hand-sized bits by laying them on a contractor bag on my front sidewalk, and chipping away using a chisel and rubber mallet. Took me about 40 minutes to break down 6 slabs (60lbs).
- Melting: if you don't have a melting pot, I highly recommend getting one. I have a SoyLite melter that holds 8lbs, though I've never done that much at once. I use 6 to 8 hand-sized blocks, which once melted fills the pot about 1/4 to a 1/3 full, which is more than enough to fill my 4 cup Pyrex measuring jug. I set it at 300 while I prepare my molds and jars, and once it's mostly melted I turn it to 200, then to warm when I'm almost ready to pour. Temp is always around 180 when pouring
- Color: I've found the dye chips CandleScience sells works the best. While I can get more custom colors out of gel/liquid dyes, they're so messy, and the colors aren't quite as vibrant. The easiest way is to use a pocket knife to create shavings to put in the Pyrex jug beforehand, then pour the melt directly onto the shavings, being sure to give it a few stirs to make sure they're well dissolved. The one issue I'm having, which is not a materials issue, is that I have rarely been able to create an exactly color match on my final/over pour to fill up the "well". Something to work on!
- Fragrance: I admit I am the least precise with this. After reading the tutorials and Q&As on this topic, I've decided that for myself, that's OK. So, for my 4 cup Pyrex, full, I add what appears to be maybe 2 teaspoons worth, but I don't know what that comes to in ounces. I also primarily use the scents that CandleScience sells. An 8 oz bottle will give me a dozen to 14 candles ranging from 4oz to 20 oz.
- Pillars/Jars/Wicking: for some, I use hard plastic molds that have a snug fitting bottom, and candles with this wax pop out with no effort after 24 hours. I use pretabbed wicks, usually LX18, and stick it right over the hole, then wrap the bottom in foil just in case, but I've never had a leak. I also use the bottom half of heavy cardboard containers that scotch bottles come in - I did it as an experiment to see if they could hold up to the heat (they do) and not leak at the seams (they don't), now I use them whenever I can get hold of them. Once they're cured I just tear away the cardboard, so it still ends up as trash, but at least it served another purpose! I also use the wick centering bars from CandleScience and like them best. For wider pieces though, I use my own - two 8" dowels rubber banded at each end, not so tight that I can't move the two dowels away from each other but tight enough that they clamp on to the wick top. As for jars, all my friends are always saving their brand name candle jars once they've burned through. I also save certain jam jars. Also, going back to the scotch boxes - I now always opt for the gift packs at the liquor store (the bottle plus 2 or 4 rocks glasses), which are usually the same price as the plain bottle. I sure don't need more rocks glasses, but they make perfect Christmas gifts or just-because gifts for friends! For all of these examples I use LX18.

Happy candle making!

I use to have a problem with people telling me they like my product but the wax I used was way to soft. Soon after I started using this wax and like magic my problems were solved my product was now firm. Here's how I break this wax a part i get a plastic bag big enough to hold the wax slab inside along with the bag it came with still covering the wax slab I then hold the slab in the air and drop it on the ground with as much force as I can. I do this repeatedly until the slab break into manageable pieces. Think of the wax like a stone table even though its made of stone if it hits the ground with enough force it will brake a part. After I have the some what smaller pieces if i need them smaller i take a few pieces put them in a different plastic bag and repeat the process. This process is best outside on hard ground but can be done in house but be careful not to crack tile. Try this method if you think this will work for you.

4 stars so far.....So after reading all the reviews about the wax being so hard, I went ahead and ordered. I got to say yes, it’s hard. But all you have to do it heat your knife in boiling water (I used 2 that way I always had a hot knife blade), wipe the blade, and start on the block. This is how I done it and I had the entire 10 lb block at a nice size shave in about 30 -45 mins. I haven’t used in my melts yet but thought I would go ahead and share my shaving of the wax. My wax is now shaved and ready to go. I will post another once I make my melts to let everyone know how they turned out.

Sorry guys, there was no way to edit my comment or reply to it. I realize I didn't say in my comment how I broke it into 4 quarters, and this may be helpful... as I said I kept it in its plastic then wrapped in a towel... then I took it outside and had to break it against the edge of a hardwood step. It didn't damage the step, but I did have to put a lot of force behind it to break. The first break in half is the easiest. The smaller your pieces get the harder to break, this is why I couldn't just keep breaking the quarters this way and had to do the meat cleaver (see my previous comment for full details).

Breaking the wax was insanely hard. It would be great if they made the 10lb slab two 5lb slab sheets. It would just be a million times easier to break if it weren't so thick. Either they truly have no other way to do it, or they want you to buy it broken up for you already... so they make it close to impossible to break the slab. A hammer didn't do jack for me (maybe if I had a chisel too, but I didn't, and screw drivers aren't strong enough). I kept it in its plastic then wrapped in a towel and broke into 4 pieces (essentially 4 quarters of the slab), then I had to break it up with a meat cleaver (I have blisters from this). To keep the wax from flying everywhere I laid a quarter piece of the wax on a cutting board inside a trash bag then lifted the opening of the bag with my left hand while I went to town on that thing with my right. I actually don't know if the case of wax they offer is already done for you but almost $100 or more for this convenience is their only other option! I'd just buy a bag a wax from somewhere else, other people have more size options that are already broken up for you. I really wanted to see how hard it was to break though, if it wasn't too bad I'd just buy the slab... but it was NOT EASY. I dropped 2 stars because I'm pretty sure it doesn't have to be this hard, but they want you to buy their only other option which is almost 100 bucks. Why they don't offer less than a 60lb case or 10lb slab? Not sure.

Just purchased this wax few days ago. When they say it's hard, THEY MEAN IT! Had to take it outside with a towel and a hammer. With that being said, I found it a little to hard for melts so I mixed it 50/50 with 6006. Just perfect. Best of both worlds. Can't wait to have more fun with the cute shaped silicone molds for tarts.

This is the first time i ordered this wax, and I didn't realize that it's slab. Could you please let me know how to break them...? knife...? it seems like too much of work, and i don't get any answer, i may just return it... oy..

I love this wax for melts. I use the IGI 4625 with 1/3 of IGI 6006. If I use the IGI 4625 by it's self the melts are to hard. The IGI 6006 makes the melts to soft. I have a wonderful throw cold and hot. Wish it didn't come in a slab, It is so hard to break up.

I love this wax. It is non-greasy, unlike soy. This wax holds properties like fragrances and dye very well. It is also a great wax for using in shaped candles with no container. The only downside is the shrinkage when it cools.

I like it. Smells great with all my FO's I've tried... Does dip a little when cooling so I pour at cooler temps now and that helps. So far so good 👍

I’m new to making tarts. I purchased clamshells and the 4625 wax. I’m not crazy about how hard and crumbly the wax is. Does anyone know how to get the consistency of say, “Scentsy” tarts? I want more of a creamy to hard wax for my tarts. Any Suggestions?

I like it just fine now. But until I added 7% Stearic and 1% Vybar, I had failure after failure. I got no throw whatsoever and had blowouts and collapses of all sorts. Some were quite dramatic! At 6% fragrance load, I couldn't detect any fragrance even with the candle right under my nose. Since I've started using the additives and sticking with those percentages, I haven't had a single blowout and they also have some throw now.

I received this wax yesterday didn’t realize I had to chisel it to break it but it was fun!!!imade large floating candles for a center piece! I tested the burn this morning so far 2 hours! I’m happy with that! The only complaint I can’t smell the scent I used the cold throw was not good and the hot throw isn’t either? I used 1/2 ounce of fragrance to 1/2 pound of wax with no dye!! Any suggestions for me?

I'm very new to candle making and I tried to use this was for tarts, I poured at 180 in clamshells moods and the wax kinda sunk in the centre of each individual mold. Can anyone explain to me why this may have happened?
A little frustrated plz help

I prefer it over any kind so far. I've used it for pillar and votive candles. It's great to work with, especially if you get really artsy with your candles. Holds color and scent really well. This is my go-to wax.

I went with 4625 after reading reviews and wax forums. I'm glad I did! This wax is very hard, so I used a chisel and hammer. I break the wax up and store it in a trash bag. I use this for my tart blend and I get nice results.

This had an amazing throw to it. Hot is great cold is light but still good. Holds color amazingly. You will need to repour at least once, the wax sags in the middle at the wick, but it's repours seamlessly.

I love this wax! It's so great to work with! My candles come out beautiful every single time! My pillars are creamy and smooth looking. The candles come out of the molds perfectly every time (I always use a little of their mold release but I'm sure these would come out without it just as easily) and the cold AND hot throw is AMAZING!

This wax is wonderful for pillar candles. It produces smooth candles(when used correctly and poured at the right temp)... No flaking/frosting. Great throw, both hot and cold!