Once you figure out how to use it... this wax is AMAZING. No other wax on the market can match the hot and cold throw of this one. Here in Texas, customers like STRONG fragrance. I use 10% fragrance oil, and this stuff is FANTASTIC!

Pro Tip: Don't use it out of the bag. I cut the bag off the wax. Then, I use a large knife to cut the wax into blocks, which go into a bucket. When I need to add more wax to the melter, I can pull a block off the stack and drop it in. This method eliminates the need to struggle to use an ice cream scoop.

Ok guys, so this is my first round of candle making ever and I am pleasantly surprised! It is very much easy if you follow clear directions per preferred wax. I am officially a IGI 4627 fan and I love everything about this wax. I tried 4 different candles just to see how they would come out. I made 2 in ceramic 4oz jars. 1 in a round globe mold. And 1 in a very thick floral soap mold. Upon melting wax and adding fragrance. I made a formula based on wax information, candle science youtube videos, and current reviews on IGI 4627 wax. I did exactly as all directions stated and they came out well. All candles have a great cold throw (i am also learning the candle terms, lol) I lit the first 4oz candle after about 4 hours and it was so great, the hot throw filled the whole room. The second candle is the snow globe mold. (Mind you this wax is very soft so not great for mold, but I still wanted to try.) I lit it the following afternoon and it was intoxicating. The smell is still lingering around, since it is soft, i saved jars from b&bw and put the globe in the 16oz jar and it melted beautifully. No smoke no soot or black stuff. Although it says to cure 2-3 days or a couple of weeks, I think these candles are ready to burn. I am actually saving the other 4oz candle to cure in a couple of days to see the difference. The soap bar is soft and pretty and I just want to keep it like that lol. Just have fun and follow those directions given with ur wax. What works for me is 1lb/2oz wax/FO. There are boiling points and pouring points for a reason. I can't wait to my 16oz jars comes in. I use a regular wick ordered from another site and I love those too. I am not familiar with wick sizing just yet. The FO I used was Magnolia Peony and it smells delightful. Also used for the soap mold and now I want to make soaps lol. Thanks candle science it was fun and what an Adventure to keep up.

This wax is an oldschool fav. That being said, I am in love with mp-117 more. This wax has a unique look as it is very similar to Vaseline in texture. It takes a whopper of a wick though so be prepared to wick up and use hot wicks. I used to use zinc core but I would have to double wick the smallest of containers to accommodate the cool wicks. Yes, it has a lower melt-point and 10% FO load (which should never be needed). The rec. wick through the manufacturer is HTP, though CS recs LX (maybe because they don't stock HTP?). A 3-in-diameter container needs a HUGE LX wick. Without fragrance, I nearly top out with the LX wicks....with only a few sizes left over to compensate for FO and other additives.
After making a few candles, I decided against this wax and am keeping with mp-117 from CS and coconut wax from another supplier because CS doesn't carry it. I will just add pillar wax to this 4627 and create melts or votives...

Beware it is messy, just be prepared. So far I have used it on 3 batches 3 different scents and it has been great.

Can you please assist me in wicking the 9 oz. Straight jar and an 8oz/12 oz. Aura jar? I've followed all the instructions and using the recommended LX wicks, they will not burn clean. It is either to hot or not hot enough. Soot is insane and makes for a dirty candle.

I was successful wicking my larger jars, however , they still have a lot of soot. Please help! I have an event coming up.

I'm having similar issues with 6006, if you can send me recommendations for the exact same jars listed above.